-My friend Frank, on Facebook, 3/23/2010
I’m guessing we followed through and went to Chinatown that day. Sounds about right. Throughout my early twenties in Chicago, Chinatown was a playground for an underemployed extrovert to kill an afternoon.
We probably grabbed dim sum at Triple Crown, our go-to, or maybe we went with MingHin in that weird outdoor mall near the Red Line stop. We likely then emerged into the fresh spring air, dizzy from overeating, and wandered the streets, popping into the shops that all sold the same trinkets, or those that only sold boldly designed home decor, the price tags blowing our young minds, but us vowing to furnish our homes with this stuff once we all grew up and got rich.
One time in Chinatown, my friend Gerry and I were buying cigars in a garden-unit tobacco shop, where a shabbily-dressed man was devouring complimentary pizza, and telling the shopkeeper about his various recent business ventures, which had the accumulated result of his losing a sum that was, by our crude tally, over $100,000. He kept saying that this or that partner screwed him out of x “grand” or y “grand.” He said the word “grand” like a dozen times, rapid-fire. It made us wonder if he thought “grand” meant “dollars”.
Then there was the time my now-wife, Ali, and I spent a rainy day hopping from shop to shop in search of a specific ginseng chewing gum from China that Ali recalled from her childhood. We finally found the gum in a bodega where they only sold it in bulk. So we bought a huge thing of it. (This is the exact plot of my favorite Seinfeld episode, so this was the best day of my life.) I think we still have some sitting around somewhere. That was six years ago.
So, anyway, the Chinese-American population of Chicago is doing all sorts of fascinating things, only a sliver of which I’ve had the pleasure of enjoying, and so I would never reduce this community to a people whose only contribution is their food. Illinois State Rep. Monique Davis, on the other hand, did just that, the same week of my aforementioned visit to Chinatown.
Sun-Times reporter Steve Contorno reported on 3/25/2010 that Rep. Davis, arguing against a bill that would require professional hair-braiders to be licensed, said this:
"You do not license a Chinese person to sell Chinese food. You do not license a Latino to sell tacos. You do not license an African-American woman to hair-braid."
That story popped up in the news not necessarily because of any protest by the city’s Chinese community, but because two fellow State Representatives, Edward Acevedo and Susana Mendoza, weren’t in love with the “Latino=tacos” portion of the quote.
Davis apologized, and Acevedo and Mendoza publicly accepted her apology, but her strange argument proved unconvincing, as the hair-braiding bill passed anyway.
Ok.
Firstly, you need a license to sell food in Chicago. So, Rep. Davis concocted a flat-out wrong statement, and then needlessly injected it with racial insensitivity.
Secondly, some hair professionals that I consulted (one of which I may be married to) are all proudly licensed to practice their craft, and cite concerns regarding safety training (like when using very hot substances) and sanitary measures (which we should all now suddenly understand the importance of) when they defend mandatory licensing policies.
“But Steve,” you may ask, “Why are you arguing vehemently against a now-retired state legislator over a bill that passed a decade ago?”
Well, Representative Monique Davis and I have a bit of a history.
In April 2008 during an Illinois House Committee hearing in Springfield, Ms. Davis interrupted the testimony of an atheist activist, saying “It's dangerous for our children to even know that your philosophy exists. Get out of that seat! You have no right to be here!” She also said some shit about how the state of Illinois is “based on” a belief in God, and that the activist must “have something against” God, which demonstrated that Davis literally could not comprehend the idea of not believing in God.
At that time, I was in Champaign, IL, occasionally attending class, but frequently attending campus events organized by atheists and/or libertarians, so you’d better believe that skinny-little-college-boy Steve wrote Rep. Davis a strongly worded email.
And oh, wow, readers, do I wish I could share that email with you. Believe me, I tried to track it down. I attempted, to no avail, to resurrect my college email account and retrieve it. I guess it’s lost to the great remote server in the sky. So you’ll have to just trust my fallible recollection when I tell you that, while I’m still an atheist who cares about the separation of church and state, my email to this veteran lawmaker was delectably pompous. It oozed arrogance. Oh my. It was literally sophomoric, as I was a college sophomore, and it betrayed no trace of self-awareness. It should be framed and hung in a dormitory hallway and labeled “Don’t write letters like this.”
Now that my atheism is less like a rabid dog and more like a goldfish that you barely need to feed, and my libertarianism has been completely discarded in favor of basic decency (some people call it progressivism), Rep. Davis’ attempt to suppress an atheist’s First Amendment rights just does not hit a nerve with me. And I don’t know exactly what to say about her words about Chinese food and tacos, except that it activates the little voice in my liberal head that says, “I don’t think she should be saying that.”
Anyway, I think reading about Rep. Davis’ comments were making me hungry while I researched this piece, because I found myself involuntarily clicking on another headline that had the word “taco” in it. James Scalzitti of the Sun-Times reported on 3/24/2010 that “two men with ties to the University of Chicago claim plainclothes city police officers beat them outside a North Side taco restaurant last month, according to a lawsuit.”
That kernel of a story ballooned into a years-along legal saga that made national news; it was a thread in the patchwork of police brutality and institutionalized coverup culture that dominated the zeitgeist in that half decade. The best account of it for my money is this Vice article written by the two victims.
You know that feeling when you read something in the news and you think, “I know that place!” Well, the location of the aforementioned assault was Arturo’s Tacos, which was repeatedly described by reporters and the victims as a Logan Square restaurant. But it’s in Bucktown. It’s on the East side of Western. I may have moved away four and a half years ago, but I still get heated when my personal convictions about the boundaries of Chicago neighborhoods are challenged.
Anyway, the place where those cops senselessly beat those two men was, for me, a place where I’d kill time with my longtime musical collaborator, Michele, under the pretense that we were getting important musical work done. We’d pretend to strategize our next moves within the Chicago music industry as an excuse to dig into some tacos and margaritas.
In my experience, in Chicago, one walks into a Mexican restaurant because it’s there on the corner and you want to eat and drink somewhere, whereas in New Orleans it’s a deliberate choice of cuisine. This is probably because you can walk into just about any neighborhood Mexican joint in Chicago and get some great stuff, and, well, that’s not the case down here.
My neighborhood was more hip than Michele’s (that’s a dig) so when we were working out of my apartment, instead of the no-frills family-owned Arturo’s, we would trot down the alley to Big Star, which is less “mariachi and free salsa” and more “ironic biker rock and small-batch bourbon.” But their tacos are tasty and their cocktails are lovingly crafted.
I took Ali there on our first date. We sat down, I asked her what she wanted to drink, she said margarita, I said me too, and she said, “Well, we should just a get a pitcher, then, right?”
I thought to myself, I believe I shall marry this woman some day.
Ok I’m just gonna keep talking about tacos.
Roughly nine years ago, a few pals and I went on a “taco crawl” through Pilsen, a neighborhood historically associated with Chicago’s Mexican community.
(Pro Tip: If you’re thinking of embarking upon your own taco crawl, limit yourself to one taco at each stop. Pay cash, tip well, and politely decline the complimentary add-ons. Otherwise you’ll be done before you even started.)
We hit a bunch of spots on 18th Street, and ended up in a cozy seafood joint on a quiet avenue. Our waitress, who was also our chef, loudly offered us this greeting: “No tacos! No burritos! We don’t have!”
We thought she was informing us that they were out of those items, but as we perused the menu, we realized that this place never served those things, and that she had just assumed that we white fellas would be uninterested in the seafood dishes she did offer. We politely ordered an array of plates to share, and our host seemed genuinely delighted when we polished off every morsel and slapped the tabletop with unabashed satisfaction.
As we departed, we exchanged many a “muchas gracias” with our kind and gracious host, but my impression that I had been pegged as someone who didn’t belong there lingered for a few days, so I went ahead and signed a lease for a place like a block away from the restaurant, and I lived there for fifteen months.
When you live in an epicenter of Mexican-American culture, with evocative street art lining many buildings, families forever congregating on the streets to laugh and unwind, and enticing dining and live music options as far as the eye can see, friends will visit you at your home. So there were many Pilsen mornings that I’d emerge from my bedroom to see familiar faces and bodies scattered about my apartment, some awake and some still sleeping. I’d put on a pot of coffee and a Simpsons DVD. Once everybody’s eyes were fully open, one of us would finally toss out, “Should we go somewhere?” The correct answer was so obvious, it hardly needed to be said aloud:
“Chinatown.”


